Ait Ben Haddou: visiting the earthen ksar above the Ounila river

Why Ait Ben Haddou is worth the trip

Few places in southern Morocco show so clearly how people built with the land itself. The whole ksar is made of earth, so from a distance its houses, ramparts and decorated towers seem to grow out of the hillside. Depending on the hour, the walls turn from ochre to soft pink.

It is also a place with a working past. In the seventeenth century the ksar was a stop for caravans travelling between Sudan and Marrakech by way of the Draa Valley and Tizi n Telouet. UNESCO added it to the World Heritage List in 1987.

What you see once you are there

The village climbs a single hill facing the Ounila Valley. Narrow lanes wind between the houses, and the climb ends at the old granary on the summit, where the view opens over the river, the palms and the plain.

Film fans will recognise the silhouette. The ksar has appeared in productions such as Gladiator, Game of Thrones and Kingdom of Heaven, which is one reason the walk to the top is so popular with photographers.

Getting there from Ouarzazate or Marrakech

From Ouarzazate the drive is about 30 km. Most visitors come for half a day or stop on the road to Marrakech.

• Grand taxi from Ouarzazate: roughly 30 minutes.
• Public bus: take a bus heading to Marrakech on the N9, get off at Tabouraht, then continue by local taxi or minibus. Cheap, but slower.
• Organised transport: daily excursions from Ouarzazate take 30 to 45 minutes each way.
• From Marrakech: after the Tizi n Tichka pass you can follow the N9 or the slower Ounila Valley road. Allow 4 to 6 hours in total. Grand taxis can be hired at the Bab Doukkala bus station.

Arriving off road with Ouarzazate Tours

You can also reach the ksar the way the trails do, across plateaus, dry riverbeds and small villages. Our half day quad, buggy and horse rides end at the foot of Ait Ben Haddou with time to explore on foot. The full day quad and buggy tours add the Kingdom of Heaven film set and the Fint oasis on the same day.

Travellers crossing Morocco on our private Marrakech to Fes desert tour also stop here on the first day. Road times and conditions change with the season, so check locally before setting off on your own.

Questions and answers