The Ounila Valley road from the Tichka pass to Ait Ben Haddou

The slow road worth taking

Most traffic between Marrakech and Ouarzazate takes the N9. The secondary road P1506 is the alternative: it leaves the Tizi n Tichka pass and follows the Ounila river down to Ait Ben Haddou, where the Ounila joins the Imini. It takes longer, but the scenery and the places along the way make up for it.

For centuries this valley was a passage for caravans carrying salt and Saharan goods to Marrakech on journeys of several weeks. The villages along the river are home to welcoming Amazigh communities.

What you pass along the valley

The road runs past green gardens and rock in surprising colours, with four landmarks most travellers plan their stops around:

• Telouet Kasbah, the Glaoui palace with painted cedar ceilings.
• The Kasbah of Anemiter.
• Tamdaght Kasbah.
• Ait Ben Haddou, the UNESCO listed ksar at the foot of the valley.

How to travel the Ounila Valley

Buses and shared taxis between Marrakech and Ouarzazate use the faster N9, so you need a car or an organised trip to drive the P1506. Some agencies run day trips that visit Ait Ben Haddou, continue up the valley and return by the N9, and many Marrakech to Ait Ben Haddou excursions include it. Routes and services change, so check locally.

Where to stay in the valley

Standard hotels are rare once you cross the High Atlas outside the larger towns. Instead you will find affordable guest houses and kasbahs, each with its own character. Tourism matters to local families, so hosts take good care of guests, and High Atlas cooking has a reputation for some of the best tagine in Morocco.

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